2010 Honda CR-V: grinding or squealing brakes

Filed Nov 21, 2024 · Body · 190,000 miles · CT

The contact owns a 2010 Honda CR-V. The contact stated while driving approximately 35 MPH, the stabili-trak warning light illuminated and turned off. The contact stated that there was an abnormal grinding and abnormal rubbing sound coming from the rear of the vehicle while making a left turn. The contact stated that the rear end was swaying to the left and right while attempting to manually correct the vehicle by turning the steering wheel. The contact stopped the vehicle and became aware that the rear passenger’s side tire was leaning at an angle into the wheel well. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the rear suspension had separated from the subframe due to extensive corrosion of the subframe and supports. The vehicle deemed unsafe to be driven by the mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The contact related the failure to the federal safety agency Campaign Number: 23V228000 (Structure). The contact stated that the recall repair had been completed in 2023 by a dealer. The contact was referred back to the dealer by the manufacturer. The failure mileage was approximately 190,000.

Filed Mar 26, 2019 · Engine, Transmission · RI

I have 2010 honda crv when I driving the crv, when the transmission is between 2th, 3th gear I hear a grinding noise coming from the transmission. Im no sure what it is, but transmission shift to the 4th gear the noise go away.

Filed Dec 5, 2018 · Engine · MN

My car has made a metal on metal grinding noise for four years on a cold startup. This is in warm or cold weather, but only if the car has not been driven for 6 hours or longer. After having this diagnosed and fixed twice by mechanics (the problem always returned), my honda dealer told me today that it is the vpc actuator. Upon searching this problem, I found it is a well known, defective part for many honda accords and cr-vs and that it can cause serious engine problems. I'm disappointed that this has not ever been communicated to me and that fixing it will cost me $1,000 since honda knows this is a defective part.

Filed Oct 7, 2018 · Engine · 80,000 miles · MD

Vehicle makes a grinding or coughing sound at start-up. It did not do this when bought used in 2012. Now at about 98000 miles. Start-up noise happens every time car starts. Engine turns over, but takes a long time to actually start. It sounds like it won't start, but it does each time. I called honda, they said noise did not affect engine operation, so they would not fix it. I am fearful of engine damage or failure to start, eventually.

Filed Jun 1, 2018 · Engine · 9,125 miles · NY

I bought my honda crv brand new 2010. By the time the car was 2 year old, with 10,000 miles, there was a grinding noise when I would start the car. The grinding noise lasts about 2 seconds. It has been into a honda dealership several times. I was told honda is working on a "fix" and that the problem would be addressed when the engineering department had the issue figured out. One year later (but still under warranty), the grinding noise is louder and longer than before, and happens almost every time I start the car. Upon doing some research, I learned that honda has been installing the defective vtc actuator since 2008, in accords. The defective actuator was also installed in 2012-2014 crv's. It appears that honda continued to use the defective actuator since 2008, yet customers are being told that a "fix" is in the works, 7 years later. American honda has advised honda service departments to not replace the actuator as it is likely that the replacement actuator will present the same grinding noise. A regional case manager also assured me that a "fix" was in the works but did not comment when I pointed out that honda continued to use a defective part from 2008-2014. Honda repeatedly emphasizes that this is not a safety or performance issue, to which I have replied that is likely the reason it has been 7 years with no fix -- it is a low priority and honda chooses to direct its engineering resources elsewhere. Complaints information : https://www.carcomplaints.com/honda/cr-v/2014/engine/engine_rattles_on_cold_start_up.shtml honda service bulletin 09-010

Filed Jan 4, 2018 · Engine · 84,949 miles · PA

2010 honda crv has excessive oil consumption problem leading to an engine stall on 9/28/17 while driving approx. 30mph on a city street. There was no prior warning of an oil level problem until the oil pressure light came on when the car stalled out. The oil had been changed in the car 2 months prior and was routinely changed approx. Every 4k miles.. The vehicle had also been having a grinding noise when starting up cold each day. This has been determined to be a vtc actuator problem. The excessive oil burning has now also caused an emissions problem (catalytic converter) and the car will not pass state inspection. There are numerous complaints including litigation pertaining to the excessive oil issue and the vtc actuator defect. There needs to be an investigation into whether vehicle crashes/injuries/fatalities involving the affected honda vehicles are caused by engine stalls or loss or power and furthermore if the excessive oil consumption problem is the cause. If the vtc actuator is causing or contributing to the problem, there needs to be a recall. Also, does excessive oil burning increase the risk of engine fires in these vehicles? Is excessive oil burning causing emissions system failures and polluting the environment? A vehicle that burns 4-5 quarts of oil between 5k mile oil changes is not safe to drive for anybody but especially unsafe for the elderly and young drivers. The defect will cause engine performance problems leading to car crashes, engine fires and violates emissions standards.

Filed Apr 12, 2016 · Driver assistance · 65,000 miles · VA

The driver side door lock buzzes for about 1-2 second when I lock the car. . It does not matter whether you use the remote or lock the car from inside. I also have it where the door locks automatically when the car is started. I think this is the honda broken door lock actuator. There's a small motor inside the actuator that gears to a small rack. When the rack reaches the end of travel, it hits a rubber bumper and shuts off the motor. When the rubber bumper wears out, the rack goes too far and the noise you hear is the motor gear grinding against the end of the rack. The problem with the car automatically relocking itself happens when the rack bounces backwards and hits the lock contacts. Contacted with the dealer, they said I need to pay out of my pocket to fix it. I think this is manufacturer's problem. They should fix it.

Filed Dec 29, 2015 · Engine · 57,000 miles · CA

The engine makes a rattling (grinding) noise during cold starts. The noise only occurs when the weather is cold <50 degrees f and only when the engine is cold. The noise does not occur when the weather is warm and the engine is warm. The noise is most likely stemming from the vtc actuator.

Filed Dec 9, 2013 · Locks · CT

The rear, driver-side door lock actuator began to fail on my 2010 honda crv in the later part of 2012 or early part of 2013. There is a squealing noise when I lock or un-lock the door. The lock itself functions intermittently, often failing completely to lock and/or unlock with the key-fob but so far it unlocks/locks with the button on the door. When the rear driver-side door doesn't unlock, I cannot open the gate. I have to manually unlock the rear door and then I can access the gate, which is not only inconvenient but dangerous. During a previous routine maintenance at the dealership where I bought my cr-v, a certified honda mechanic confirmed the problem is an actuator(s) failing; however, because there is no recall at this time [on this well-known and documented issue], the financial burden of replacing the faulty parts would fall solely on me. My husband has been laid off for a few months and I cannot afford this repair. It doesn't seem fair to have faithful honda owners (3 of our 4 vehicles are hondas) bear the burden of what seems to be a defect.

Filed Oct 2, 2013 · Locks · 30,000 miles · WI

The rear, passenger-side door lock actuator began to fail on my 2010 honda crv in the later part of 2012 or early part of 2013. It originally started as a squealing noise when I would lock or un-lock the door and escalated to a loud grinding/clunking noise. The lock itself functions intermittently, often struggling or failing completely to lock and/or unlock with the key-fob or with the button on the door. The issue has seemed to spread to the rear, driver-side door lock, which now has also began to show signs of failure. A certified honda mechanic has confirmed the problem is most likely resulting from the actuator(s) failing; however, because there is no recall at this time [on this well-known and documented issue], the financial burden of replacing the faulty parts would fall solely on me.

Filed Jul 23, 2012 · Brakes · 13,000 miles · NY

Incredibly fast wear on one left rear brake pads and grinding sound at all speeds. Visually checked all the brakes - the pads on all 3 are normal with little wear, but the left rear is totally worn. This happened within a few weeks. Also the rotors are worn uneven with "pitted" surface. This is not the due to a usage, but due to some mechanical problem. The problem is severe - I can not drive a vehicle!!!

Filed Jun 19, 2010 · Seat belts · 3 miles · PA

I recently purchased a brand new 2010 honda cr-v ex-l on 29 may 2010. I didn't expect to have any problems with a brand new vehicle; however, I unfortunately discovered a very annoying problem with the front passenger's seat belt retractor. Similar to the problem discussed in the honda service bulletin 05-073, 'a squeak or rattle is heard from the seat belt retractors while driving over bumps or rough roads.' my problem comes from the front passenger seat and not the rear seats. I contacted the dealer I purchased the vehicle from, and they said the problem cannot be repaired. However, the service bulletin 05-073 states the issue was remedied by installing a rubber floor boot to insulate the retractors from the body.