UNKNOWN. Vehicle is burning through oil every 1,000 miles or so. Excessive oil consumption which i am aware there is a recall. However Kia states my VIN # is not included. While at the dealer service department for failed A/C system, we questioned the excessive oil consumption and engine replacement. We were told they found nothing wrong. Having to top off oil every 1,000 miles or so. It does not make it to the next oil change before the light comes on. No oil leaks. Mechanic said known problem with this engine. Most recently the starter went bad, alternator, and battery. Replaced with a second brand new battery and car won't start again. Dash is lighting up erratically, new battery dead. As if something is drawing all power and draining brand new batteries. This car has a little over 86,000 miles and one thing after another is failing. The car lost power and power steering in a curve leaving us in a dangerous situation after replacing the starter. Dash lighting up erratically with front end collision warning message on the display. We had it towed to our residence which our auto insurance reimbursed us for. Replaced alternator and battery yesterday, and the car lost all power again turning back onto our street, again with the Dash lighting up erratically.
Kia Optima battery drain problems
11 of the 7,544 owner complaints about the Kia Optima describe battery drain or dead battery, most of them for the 2011 model year.
- owner complaints
- 11
- worst model year
- 2011
- typical mileage
- 70,100
By model year
- 20191
- 20171
- 20151
- 20131
- 20122
- 20113
- 20091
- 20061
Often reported together
Won't start 3Stalling 2Key fob 2Airbag light 2Oil consumption 1Loss of power 1Headlights 1Fire or smoke 1
Trouble codes mentioned
B1481 1B1382 1
What owners say
Because the brake stopper or brake switch are messed up and my brake tail light stays on all night causing it to drain the battery If the car is braking while I’m driving it and the traction control light comes on and the speed is decreasing as I’m driving because the car is braking on it’s own it has nothing to do with the lights Nor the battery the root of the issue is the brake line because the tail light will not cut off because the brakes are still engaged even when the car is off causing the tail lights to stay on so the lights is what is draining the battery the lights stay on all night in a car the battery dies but the battery nor the lights is the issue it’s the brakes
Issue started 2 months ago. Noticed that vehicle acceleration is sluggish. Sometimes I have to take foot off the acceleration pedal then depress it again in order for vehicle to accelerate. Acceleration is unreliable and dangerous. Electronic stability sensor also started lighting up and cruise control became inoperable. Also noticed that my tail lights lit up on its own (and did not turn off) while vehicle is parked and fob not near vehicle, draining the battery. Police came by in the middle of the night to report that my tail lights were on. Tail light did not turn off when pressing the fob unlock/lock button. Had to restart the engine, drive around the block then turn off engine before the tail lights came off... But it turned back on again on its own that same night (in the middle of the night) and had to repeat the process. My battery was drained and had to replace it 3 days ago. I thought it was a battery problem (and was informed by dealer that it was probably a battery related issue) but problem persisted. Read reviews and this seems to be a running complaint with issues on brake pedal stopper or brake sensor stopper. Will bring vehicle to dealer in the morning.
I was driving to work at night time for about a week straight my head lights would randomly turn on and off by their selves while I'm driving and then my car would be sitting in my parking space and my neighbors told me my lights would just be on all night and my car would be locked and everything and one day I went out to start my car and I couldn't even unlock it to get in it so I thought it might've been my car remote battery died and so I asked a neighbor that works on cars to see what it could be they popped my hood and checked my car battery and it was completely dead, they tried to give me a jump which was just enough to allow me to unlock and get into my vehicle but my car battery was completely fried due to headlight sensor.
My problem has occurred 5 separate times. My car won't crank after sitting anywhere from 2 minutes to all night. I stop and park my car, put gear in park and press the button to stop the engine. When I try to get back in if my door is locked, sometimes I can't get in with my key fob. I have to open the hood, charge the battery and then the key fob works. If my car is not locked, I get in and no lights come on, pressing the start engine button does absolutely nothing. I cannot operate any part of the car, trunk, lights, seats, windows, it is all dead. There is nothing wrong with my battery. Why is this now happening? I have around 42,000 miles and I have a kia optima 2013 with all bells and whistles. I love my car but as a widow, I don't want to get stranded somewhere with a dead battery / engine. What could possibly be the problem. I have been reading that a lot of other owners are having the same problems. What do we need to do? The dealerships just charge exorbitant amounts of money and the problems still are fixed. Should there not be a recall on problem, especially since it is an electrical issue?
Well my 2011 kia optima ex stalled in traffic and was able to push it into a parking lot to be towed, come to find out my engine went out on me. I started to hear a knocking noise that came out of nowhere and then my car died and check engine light came on. Come to find out that I have a recall on my vehicle for this problem. I am very uspet to find out this has been going on for a year or so and have never ever been notified of it via mail or anything! I could of killed someone let alone myself or my family! I had to do repairs o n8/19/17 because my car out of nowhere started making a knocking noise and battery died. I had to get a new battery and then have my car checked out which all costed $350 and still died on me and my airbag light is on now then... Only to find out my engine was bad. I'm looking into legal action.
My car started smoking one day while I was driving down the road going about 25-30mph it was so bad people started yelling!!! Get out .. Get out ..your car on fire..I pulled over so embarrassed.... And I got out...the smoke had the back of the .car black...from the smoke out of the tailpipe.so I waited 30-45 had car towed back home ...I stay 35 mins from kia dealership so I had to wait until next day to take over there. And surprisely they told me sludge oil.at this point it was only 32,000 miles. I asked how can I fix the problem they said..they dont fix sludge oil... And made it very clear they was voiding my warranty because I didn't have all my receipts from previous oil changes. And this come from lack of maintenance... Ok. So I got oil changes every 2,000 problem slowed down.. No sensors was on or nothing.... One day went to store came home and parked never cranked...55k miles towed to st.augustine kia dealership said the engine is shocked...it didn't have any noise coming from anywhere.. We thought it was a dead battery or starter..kia said engine I just don't understand..
2011 kia optima battery died the main fuse indicator wasn't working. On wednesday february 17, 2016 at about approximately 5am on rt97, I was approximately 20 miles from home on my way to work when the car stalled out. I was able to pull to the side of the road; I waited for 2 minutes I then pushed the start button on the dash board the car then started. I then put it in gear and started down the road again I went a quarter of a mile the optima stalled out again. After waiting 2 minutes again I was able to get my car started again I decided to turn the optima around to head back to my home. I was able to get the car home without it stalling. I then changed the battery of the kia optima with a new federated battery the mileage on the odometer was 144,540.0
The battery died in my 2009 kia optima and upon replacing battery the airbag light came on. It was taken to a kia dealership and was told that it was because we changed the battery. The airbag light was reset. About a week later it came on again and was taken back to the dealership and reset again. It came back on the next day and was again taken to the dealership at what time we were told that it was the b1382 & b1481 airbag problems and that it was going to cost over $1200.00 to fix. Why would changing the battery cause these problems? I had only purchased the car 18 months before this incident.
The first episode was a dead battery. The car had 13 miles on the odometer. The second incident, car would not start, ignition issue, but later started (after 1hr). Taken to dealer, secondary to ignition issues. Problem resolved until today. Would not start again. Tried two different key fobs and still did not start. This is the third incident since having the vehicle. I will need to have the car towed for the second time.
Related recalls
Electrical system: starter assembly
- What is wrong
- On certain passenger vehicles equipped with 2.5 and 2.7 liter v6 engines, the crankshaft position sensor (ckp) cases did not meet dimensional specifications.
- Risk
- Internal gaps within the cases allowed epoxy to contact the printed circuit board, which resulted in cracking of the circuit board capacitor. A damaged ckp capacitor could result in engine stalling.
- Remedy
- Dealers will replace the ckp. Owner notification began march 28, 2003. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact kia at 1‑800‑333‑4542.
Recall number 03V067000 · Recall details
Questions about the Kia Optima battery drain
Which Kia Optima years have battery drain or dead battery problems?
The model years with the most reports are 2011 (3 complaints), 2012 (2 complaints) and 2006 (1 complaints).
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