Kia Optima key fob problems

Filed Sep 8, 2026 · Engine · 126,000 miles · FL

The contact owns a 2018 Kia Optima. The contact stated that upon starting the vehicle, the vehicle jerked abnormally. The failure persisted while driving, and the vehicle lost motive power. The contact was able to restart the vehicle; however, the failure persisted while driving. The vehicle was towed to a dealer to be repaired under an unknown recall for an engine software update and key fob replacement; however, the dealer failed to honor the recall repair and recommended purchasing a new vehicle. The manufacturer was contacted by phone, and a case was filed. The failure mileage was approximately 126,000. The VIN and License plate number were unavailable.

Filed Apr 2, 2026 · Electrical, Engine · AZ

On March 23, 2026, I took my 2017 Kia Optima Plug-In Hybrid (VIN: [XXX] ) to Mark Kia [XXX] ) solely for two open safety recalls: SC218 (Engine Inspection/Replacement and KSDS software installation) and SC278 (Emergency Trunk Latch Release) under Repair Order #6807251. No customer-pay work was performed. The Multi-Point Inspection that day noted only the cabin air filter. During the drive home on March 23, a faint rotten-egg (H₂S) smell appeared for the first time. By the morning of March 24, 2026, the smell was severe. I immediately returned the vehicle. Under new Repair Order #6807360, a second Multi-Point Inspection suddenly recommended $1,134.10 in customer-pay services (new 12V battery, fuel induction service, cooling system service, brake fluid exchange, and ATF exchange) that were not flagged the previous day. Since the recall service, the vehicle has developed numerous new defects that never existed before: Rotten-egg smell (H₂S) Intermittent AC that blows warm in stop-and-go traffic Passenger-rear power window clicks but will not roll down Brake warning (“Stop vehicle and check brakes”) “Key not detected” message Passenger-side mirror pushed in with temporary motor malfunction 12V battery cover left completely disassembled and misplaced in the trunk Complete no-start / dead 12V battery condition (will not crank even after multiple jump attempts as of March 30, 2026) On March 24, 2026, I sent a formal demand letter by certified mail (received and signed for by the dealership on March 27, 2026) giving Mark Kia five business days (until close of business March 31, 2026) to provide a free tow, free loaner, and free repair of all defects. I followed up with six supplemental addendums (dated March 24–30, 2026) attaching photos and videos of every issue. On April 1, 2026, Service Director [XXX] replied by email and admitted in writing (twice) that the dealership did not follow recall procedure INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Filed Jan 29, 2024 · Electrical, Engine · NM

I bought my 2013 Kia optima ex from a private seller about half a year ago. I've had a few problems here and there that we're easily diagnosed and fixed. The radiator, alternator, starter, battery, serpentine belt, headlights, tail lights, licence plate light, tires, cabin air filter, and keyless start key fob have all been replaced. I just recently got my key fob(OEM) programmed by a licensed mechanic. The next day the car was perfectly fine. Ran smoothly and had no problems at all. I parked it and went to bed. Next day I get up early and start the car to warm up before I take my kids to the bus stop for school. It was between 5-7 minutes later and I went outside to the car and smelled an overwhelmingly strong plastic/chemical burning type smell coming from the car. I got in and saw that the air conditioning was on low and i turned it off, thinking the smell was because it was cold and the air needed to be off to stop the smell... I drove my son to the bus stop one block away and there was no dash light on but the smell was still there so I turned the car off and we got out of the car. After the bus got my son, I got in the car and could still smell the burning smell but tried to start it to take it home and the dash lights came on like normal then all turned off except the check engine light, oil light, battery light, key light, eps light. The car made one click noise under the hood and did not start or make any noises indicating an attempt to start. The key light the turned off but the oil, battery, engine lights remained. I turned the car back off and downloaded an app called justask to ask a mechanic about the problem and he said to call the master lube where I had gotten an oil change a few weeks prior and ask them what to do because of the oil light being on and the possibility that they overfilled it which could cause problems.i called. the oil was fine, no leaks, he has no idea why it isn't starting. So I call the mechanic. No idea what is wrong still....

Filed Feb 27, 2021 · Electrical, Engine · 109,000 miles · GA

Car will not get out of immobilization phase, with either key fob will not unlock to use push to start. Issue is waste gate activator failure or needs adjustment.

Filed Jan 13, 2021 · Electrical, Engine · 190,000 miles · MN

Car will not get out of immobilization phase, with either key fob will not unlock to use push to start. Also common issue is waste gate activator failure, caused us to almost crash dealer said it is a exstremly common issue but kia won't issue recal.

Filed Sep 8, 2020 · Electrical, Lights · 106,000 miles · AZ

The headlights will randomly turn themselves on and off in day and night time. This only happens in the 'auto' option for the headlights. I have seen numerous other reports on this on here. In addition to that the car doesn't respond to the key fob most of the time even with brand new battery in the fob. Step dad has the same car with same issues with the key fob.

Filed Oct 9, 2019 · Brakes, Electrical · 43,193 miles · CA

While parked in various locations (on street, at gas pump, in parking lots), and on about 8-10 occasions, I was unable to get the car to start after depressing the brake and start button on my car. All the lights lit up on the instrument panel and the radio went on as well - the rest of the car electrical system worked fine. The brake pedal became very stiff and was hard to depress. I put my key fob into the bypass in the trunk and it still would not start. The only way to get the car to start was to depress the stiff brake pedal, then shift from p to d and back again. Then the brake pedal seemed to loosen up and I was able to start the car successfully. I had researched the remedy through you tube. The first time it happened was october 2, 2018 and it has happened about 8-10 times since then. I have a video of the problem, but not of the solution that I found online, therefore I am unable to attach any documentation. I noticed that the replacement of the brake switch was "voluntary" the federal safety agency # 13v‑114, but feel that this should be a mandatory fix instead since it has happened so often to me. Just last week when it happened again, I remembered what to do quickly as I was stuck in a long line at the gas station just last week, with cars honking at me to move when I could not. It happened to me the last time just yesterday 10/8/2019 inside my garage. Please look into making this a mandatory recall. I will be contacting my local dealer this week as well. Thank you.

Filed Jul 13, 2019 · Electrical, Engine · 74,000 miles · SD

When attempting to start my vehicle everything turned on in the car except the car itself. Brake pedal was stiff and nothing would turn the engine on. It took over 10 minutes and was finally able to get the vehicle to fire. Has happened twice today 7/13/19. The vehicle is a push button start with battery charge of 95% and new batteries in the fob.

Filed Apr 3, 2019 · Airbags, Body · 79,000 miles · MA · fire

I was driving from woburn ma on new boston road headed to wilmington ma and my car seemed to shut down I was able to pull over off the street next to a curb location 147 new boston rd. I tried to start my car pressing the push button start only lights came on on the oil has engine battery... While still sitting in the car I was trying to make some calls I smelled a burning smell I noticed smoke coming from the front of the car. The smoke increased rapidly I exited the car called 911. While waiting for help to arrive I grabbed some items from the glove box and back seat the front of the car at that point flames were coming from under the hood the flames escalated to pop the hood a large fire had ignighted from the engine area the fire department put out the fire. A tow truck towed the car away.

Filed Nov 9, 2018 · Electrical · 87,000 miles · OH

I thought my key fob stopped working I took it to the dealership had it tested and they said it was fine. They said it had to be the wiring in my car for my alarm system. About 4 months ago I was going to get into my car. I put my key in the dot unlocked it pulled my door open and my car alarm started going off. I tried everything possible to get it to turn off. Finally after about 3 minutes it just stopped. Never happen again until a week ago. Same scenario. Then 2 days ago same scenario. I'm read online it's a common issue people have and I'm wondering if it's related to the car fire thing and wires shorting out.