Has I was driving my car home from work. Driving about 35mph I started to loose power and then the at, engine, tcs/dsc lights all came on. When I made it home I let it sit. While I looked into the issue on google later that evening I went back to see if my car was still having the issue. I placed the car in reverse and my car jumped/ jerked real hard. As I let go of the break I noticed my car didn't slowly move on its own like prior. I actually had to press the gas down quite a bit. My car revved up to 3 making a loud noise. The car had no power would hardly move. As I researched the problems and light issues it was kinda a surprise how easy it was to figure out what the issue was. Since this is a very very common issue found with the mazda cars. So many people have this issue that when you order the part at over $600.00 in the directions that is sent they actually recommend relocating the TCM to a different location using zipties. Went to have car codes read on my car informed the guy what I believed it to be and the most likely will be u0101 lost communication with TCM, and I was correct.
2010 Mazda MAZDA3 electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 50, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I believe that (recall campaign 0917b) safety recall applies to my 2010 mazda3 gt, although it took over 2.5 years to occur (august 2017) the complete fallouts didn't happen until now...(december 2020) initially, felt a pop in my back (from the frame?) while I was driving, pulled over and the seats moved fine so didn't think anything of. Meanwhile, a distinct rattling occurred intermittently behind me. Took the car to the local dealership (paid their special service diagnostic fee of ($165+) with 'master technicians' who know about this seat recall, yet, found nothing wrong with the seat or even looked if you ask me, yet wanted me to correct the noise by by installing both front and rear new suspension (~$1000). Took the vehicle to a suspension specialist and found only one (1) part of the suspension that may have required correcting but was still in good condition. I asked if the remaining suspension components were safe and if they would need replacement. And they said'no' only one (1), and it was barely damaged, but I replaced it anyway. Took it back for an oil change since they were treating me honestly. Two days later, as I was leaving my work, the seat fell off the right rail as I was driving. In retrospect, the push nuts on the right side popped off and the driver's seat back frame has lost its integrity, so I sat askew. Unable to drive safely unless a piece of wood is holding the seat to the rail. Is it possible to still repair my car's driver's seat under the aforementioned safety recall? I don't feel safe driving and am without options at this time. Please help!!
I am having a starter problem. I have replaced the battery and have had diagnostics done on alternator and starter. Both passed except there was a recall on 2010 mazda's that isn't showing under my VIN number. Recall number 09v126000. I've taken it to get looked at and have an appointment with mazda. I just don't want to be rejected for this recall.
At approximately 49,000 miles the left front passenger door lock actuator and latch started to fail. This causes the locks to lock and unlock repeatedly at all speeds. This happens randomly and is sometimes made worse depending on temperature or how bumpy the road is. I have narrowed it down to the connector on the actuator being loose and not always making a good connection. The issue causes all doors to lock and unlock or just stay unlocked while driving. I also have to keep the dome lights turned off because sometimes they would stay on. The computer was thinking that the door was open. I'm setting the date of it happening at the beginning of the month but it has been going on for some time now.
The check engine light came on and the car began stalling as I drove on the freeway. It stalls and feels like it won't change gears. Took it to a shop and they kept telling me the computer code was not giving them any information and they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it.
As soon as possible as you can do it so it can be fix and drive right and I you can come and get it and I need a rental car until my is fix
Everything need's to be repair on it asap as you can do it so the car can be fix
There is a recall applicable to my vehicle which requires that engine mounts be stablilzed. It makes my car vibrate and the engine sounds loud while seated in the vehicle. I have taken my car to a couple of dealers and they say they don't have the required part. I was scared to drive my car.because it was smoking from under the hood. I let it sit in my garage since 2008. I finally took it to a mechanic who told me that the engine had caused a hole in the coolant tank and it was leaking coolant. That's why it overheated. The car runs fine now, but needs to have the engine mount put in. What do I do now? In addition, my driver side window will not operate. I thought this was a fuse issue, but another mazda 3 owner told me they have the same issue
Engine stalls due to vibration while driving. There was a recall for this exact problem, but mazda isnt honoring without me paying for repais first. As I was turning in front of an 18 wheeler dash lights came on and I temporarily lost power. Shut off and back on again
I've scheduled the recall repairs three times ,with three different mazda dealerships, since june 2018, when my hatchback smashed against my head (pictures attached). Each time a day or two before the scheduled recall repairs each dealership had called and canceled the recall repairs with no availability on a reschedule date available. This is completely unacceptable. I attempted to reschedule the recall repairs today august 21,2019 , there is no dates available at any mazda dealerships within 100 miles of my location for more than one year from now. So in my opinion this is mazda completely failing to complete a timely repair on mazda recalls. *tt
While driving the vehicle dash lights start blinking and car stops accelerating, turns on by won't move. Mechanic says engine is not communicating with transmission. Electrical issue seems like. When it rests it will work but then after driving it happens again. It just stops while you are driving, dangerous.
Push button start malfunction, causing instrument panel to light up and behave erratically. Car obviously not safe to drive at that point. Shifting into reverse louder than normal and very noticeable jerk. Same result when shifting back to drive. Did not attempt any movement. Shut off engine. Waited several seconds, attempted restart, but engine would not restart. Instrument panel was lit up with a red key indicator light. Towed to dealer. Could not diagnose failure. Reset system, ran full diagnostic, no failure codes reported. Drove fine for 2 days, on 3rd day, problem repeated itself, car is now back at the dealer waiting on repair/diagnosis. Car was parked in home garage southern az on both occasions.
The 12v power charging port started on fire. It was speaking flames when charger was plugged in to charging port. It started doing this while in motion and stationary.
Mazda 3 engine light on for 2 years. I have taken car to multiple mechanics and in 1-2 days light is back on. Recently car seems to hic cup on shifting and on braking the back end of car seems to run into the front end. In last 2 wks an at light came on and car almost wouldn't shift in gear. I have a verizon hom and got s message indicating 'solenoid stuck on e'. When I called firestone they stated those mazda 3 have that problem and that I need to take car to mazda. In trying to understand my issue I googled problem that showed there was a electrical recall that may cause engine to stop or problems shifting.
After turning on the car and shifting it into drive, the car accelerated at about 20 MPH without a foot on the gas.
At light and check engine light are on. Car has shift issue. It can't go higher speed even I push the gas pedal. It has clutch sound every time I shift the gear stick. My car is automatic transmission. It happens right after I start the car. And the issue contines all the time.
The car will intermittently not shift out of park due to the shift lock not releasing properly, and the stop lights and horn are not functioning properly as well. This seams to be typical of the mazda3's due to the horn shorting the fuse and the brake switch going bad, and definitely makes the car more accident prone. Others seam to report the cruise control functions stop working due to the same fuse being used for stop lights and the cruise control function.
One of the two electricals broke loose that's connected to the battery that starts the car. My car literally stalled out on me in the middle of an intersection. I was almost hit because of that. Another issue is my right back tire. One of the lug nuts won't come off and that is a safety issue. If something happens to my tire, I'm not going to be able to get a new tire to replace the old one. Another issue is the light on the ceiling of my car broke. The wires are exposed. My dashboard in my car is also melting.
My mazda 3 will not start. I took my vehicle to a mazda dealership and they gave a me a description of my issue and resolution (my issue: battery cable shorted and split in half due to a default wire harness). I googled the part number and I noticed a recall on my car related to the same exact part. Recall # 09v12600 mazda is now telling me my issue is not covered under the recall because my VIN does not show it has been recalled. My confusion is as follows; the issue is the same, the resolution is the same, the part number is the same, the vehicle is the same (model and year). I really need your help in resolving my issue. Mazda is charging $1400 for the fix, I am looking any help from the federal safety agency please, to help resolve my issue and have my issue be covered under a recall. The recall states potential impact of 25,400 vehicles (leaving the door open for more or less vehicles). I am lucky the short did not cause a fire, I need your help to ensure the issue does not occur again. Looking for any good faith thank you very much for you help. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I have two remotes for the car. They both work just fine until last week. One key wouldn't start the car the security lock symbol show up. The dashboard light up the radio turn on the air conditioner as well. But it would not start the car. I would have insert the other key to turn on the car. Then a few days later the other key wouldn't work. It's does the as the other key. I have to carry both sets just in case one would work.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While driving various speeds, the radio activated independently. The radio turned on and off when the brake pedal was depressed. In addition, the windows failed to work intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. The contact stated that the vehicle would not start and was towed to the contact's residence. An independent mechanic came to the contact's residence and inspected the vehicle. The technician diagnosed that the main fuse had short circuited and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact referenced the federal safety agency campaign number: 09v126000 (electrical system); however, the VIN was not included. The failure mileage was approximately 144,000.
The radio volume control can not turn off. If click the volume knob to turn off, the volume become 10 times louder. When the radio volume is at "on" state, only left door bose has sound. When the radio volume is at "off" state, the sound level is 10 times louder in left rear bose speaker. Some times, when radio is on, it could automatically jump to 10 times louder by itself.
Driver's side window has fallen off track and does not close as it should. Further, when you remove your finger from the automatic "up" button, the window will automatically roll down after releasing the button (as if it has a life of it's own). This is a window motor or electrical problem. This can happen when the vehicle is moving or when it is stationary ... City or highway.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While driving 4 MPH, the contact heard a noise inside the vehicle. The tire pressure light was illuminated; however, it functioned as designed and was not related to the failure. In addition, while driving various speeds, the sun roof failed to close, the vehicle vibrated and veered to the right numerous times. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who confirmed that the internal software malfunctioned and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 75,000. Updated 07/27/16*lj
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The VIN was not included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 09v126000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 82,000.
Vehicle comes to a complete stop while running on highway,inmovilizing all systems. Taken to shop scanned for trouble ,code u0100 was detected.recall for wiring was checked wiring is ok. Replaced burn out parts taken to test same problem arise.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. The contact stated that the dashboard had a sticky residue or film that was building up. As the failure progressed, the dashboard deteriorated. The contact also experienced a failure with the driver's side seat belt buckle, which was difficult to unbuckle. The contact had to make numerous attempts to unlock the buckle. The cigarette lighter deteriorated and caused the contact's charger to become stuck and unable to be removed. The contact stated that there was an electrical malfunction near the console of the cigarette lighter. The vehicle was not diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 65,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. The contact stated that there was an electrical short or malfunction in which the gauges, sensors, and warning lamps flickered on the instrument panel. The contact also noticed the radio was shorting intermittently. Later, the vehicle hesitated and stalled. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the technician was not able to replicate or diagnose the failure. The contact continued to experience the failures and the vehicle stalled more than five times without warning. The contact was able to restart the vehicle each time. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable.
Moisture has entered both head lamps causing failure of bulbs and hid control units. Complete lighting failure while driving.
VIN decoder
See the problems and recalls for an exact car
Buying a used 2010 Mazda MAZDA3?
Check the exact car before you pay: accidents, salvage or flood titles, odometer readings and previous owners.
Check its history