When in cruise control at between 70-75 MPH and going up a long incline (cajon pass) the electrical light comes on and the car quits running, and to date starts again after losing about 5mph after several heartbeats. This has been happening intermittently since the car was new with less than 6000 miles on it.
2007 Dodge Caliber acceleration complaints
Page 2 of 5: complaints 11 to 40 of 104, newest first, as owners wrote them.
At first, the service engine soon light would begin flashing when I hit the accelerator pedal and I lost power. Could not go over 35 MPH. Then by the time I made it off the highway, the light stayed flashing all the time. And I have not been able to regain proper power at all. It uses a ton of gas and when sitting in park, if I push the break pedal, there is a clicking noise under where the shifter is located. With losing power on the highway, other traffic and myself were in danger. I looked online and many many ppl have the same issue with no luck of fixing the problem even after hundreds of dollars at the mechanic. Also, many have filed complaints and have gotten no where and very negative responses when calling dodge. I dont have hundreds of dollars for repairs as I am on disability. Hope this has became a recall issue and I dont have a huge out of pocket expense. I travel to drs alot
The car will suddenly lose all acceleration and power with no warning. Eventually the throttle control light will illuminate but will eventually go off. The gas pump as been replaced, the throttle control has been replaced, and this is still happening. This is extremely dangerous and could cause me to get rear-ended at any given moment. It's extremely scary because this will happen in the middle of the driving on the expressway and all of a sudden the vehicle goes into limp mode and goes no where. This happens while driving on the city streets as well. Also, I'm pregnant. I am afraid for myself, my child, and the father of my child because we all ride in this car every day!!! This needs to be fixed!!! Search the internet, this is happening to everyone, not just me!!!
While driving I let off of accelerator pedal and vehicle proceeds to accelerate with out your foot being on it. This was while in motion on a city street
My car loss speed when you drive it for more than 50 minutes end then I have to wait for 20 minutes while the temperature down.
This is my third time that this car has not started. For no reason with a new battery it won't turn on and has no power at all. No power to the lights, locks, radio or dash. Now it has low power and when it's turned off with no key in the ignition it's making a ticking noise every 30 seconds. I have to wait again to get this jumped and I want out of this vehicle. I've replaced the battery twice in this car within 10 months and the fuse box doesn't work for the right headlight. I don't know how to get out of this car without the dealership coming after me.
"takata recall" while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 MPH max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 65 MPH, the electronic throttle control warning indicator illuminated continuously. In addition, the vehicle decelerated from 65 MPH to 5 MPH, and the vehicle lost power. The vehicle was able to restart, but failed to operate until minutes later. The contact called john elway chrysler at 970‑281‑4687 and was advised to bring in the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The approximate failure mileage was 154,000.
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once I went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said I needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while I was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ECM and they had to order the part. I got my car back on thursday june 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on june 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because I'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
Turn signals start to fail, even with the faulty bulb replaced newly replaced bulb does not work. Brought the car to the dealership and diagnosed the tipm (totally integrated power module) is faulty. Checked the internet and forums for similar issues other owners have worse issues such as headlights randomly going out, stalling at highway speeds, windshield wipers failing... That they are encountering due to a faulty tipm which can be a safety issue. The clockspring failure causes the airbag warning light to come on which signifies that the airbag will not work when it needs to. The cruise control system intermittently works which is also affected by the clock spring. Both lower control arms bushings (left and right) have been replaced twice due to wear. Seems excessive wear between 58k and 80k miles with mostly highway driving on smooth roads.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 MPH, the accelerator pedal became stuck without warning. The contact also mentioned that the windshield wipers, defroster, and radio became inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The VIN was not included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000. Updated 05/17/16*lj the consumer stated the crossbar was repaired.
Have had several batteries, starters and alternators replaced over the past 3 years. Car has 140,000 miles on it. Recently the engine light went on. Now when it rains, the dashboard warning lights go off like a christmas tree with the the warning bell sounding. Car won't go over 20mph. If I turn it off and then on again (sometimes after a few tries) it starts up fine. Like the car but can't afford whatever is wrong to fix it.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at approximately 55 MPH, the vehicle slowed down and accelerated independently. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure was undetermined. The vehicle was test driven by a mechanic who stated that the electronic throttle control needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired. The VIN was not included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 17,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. When another driver operated the vehicle, the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle accelerated and veered into a corn field. The driver was able to stop the vehicle by depressing the brake pedal. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed by a dealer or independent mechanic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The VIN was excluded from the federal safety agency campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The approximate failure mileage was 91,000. Updated 11/04/15*lj updated 2/1/2016 *js
On my way home from work I stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well. I went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (I work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so I got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on. My headlight also stopped working and I replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! I just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since I was not able to fix it I had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks I was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now I have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general. My car dies at almost every stop light and if I go over 2rpm it will not acclerate. I had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since I dont make much money. The car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts. I dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most calibers so I stuck it out but now I dont know whats going to happen. As of today, august 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the AC stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!
The total integrated power control module (tipm) is the latest diagnosis made (7/31/15) for my 2007 dodge caliber. History: beginning in 2010 I began to notice an intermittent terrible whining noises and loss of power, which I attributed to (incorrectly) to the dodge CVT automatic transmission. The events would occur then o go away only to return again. Then beginning in 2011 the events were followed shortly thereafter by electrical component failures all of which caused me to make emergency shoulder pull offs due to significant power loss and the acrid odor and smoke of smoldering plumes of smoke. The acrid smell and smoke would stop when I shut down the vehicle; however the vehicle would not restart and had to be towed to a mechanic in each of the following documented incidents: 1/3/11 (mileage 67,877) tow and replace starter - $429.00 1/7/12 (mileage 73,943) tow and replace warranted starter - $179.00 2/14/13 (mileage 85,490) tow and replace warranted starter- $189.00 3/7/14 (mileage 97,383) tow and replacement starter - $324.03 2/15/15 (mileage unknown) replace alternator $406.00 5/20/15 (mileage 102,660) replacement starter $491.27 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 320) replacement starter $ (no charge) 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 325) unable to diagnose electrical problem 7/31/15 (mileage 103, 325) replacement (tipm) $ 1242.00 (estimate) come on dodge/daimler chrysler/fiat make this right or forever forego future product purchase
Driving on the highway at 70 MPH and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and I had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 MPH. This has happened numerous times I have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that I have the transmission service done by the dealer which I paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now I am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced power on her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times I have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15 *bf updated 11/13/2017
At 132000 miles, I am replacing both control arms for the fourth time on my 2007 dodge caliber sxt 2.0l, no to mention the numerous cv boots and ball joints. With the numerous complaints I have seen online, it is surprising that no recall efforts (at least seemingly) have been made for such a dangerous and costly defect. I implore your company, please investigate the concerns and having chrysler-dodge fix their errors!!! Even my mechanic informed me that the length of the arm is just short enough to create continual issues. This isn't right. As a result of so many repairs on this vehicle, I will never own a chrysler-dodge product again. Thank you for your time and consideration.
I was traveling on I-40 when I hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn. I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it. It pulled 4 codes and they are as follows... P2006 intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15 p1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722 output shaft speed sensor p0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor now as I said, my car seems to run fine and I have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can I do to reset the codes, I already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can I do? Thank you [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).'
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 MPH, the electrical warning light illuminated and the ability to accelerate failed. The vehicle was restarted and resumed to normal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and they were unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000. The VIN was not available.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 MPH, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5 MPH, there was a delayed response when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The failure recurred on a separate occasion. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the accelerator pedal became stuck causing an unintended acceleration. The contact also stated that the front driver side door handle and locking mechanism fractured and the door could not be secured. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed that the door hinge needed to be replaced. No further information was available on the conditions of the vehicle. The initial failure was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 55,000.
Integrated power module needs replaced at 65000 miles. Dashboard cluster flickers and car only accelerates to 15 MPH. Cost of repair is $1000. Dealership advised they are selling power modules at 30 a month. How is this not a problem to be a recall?
My car started sputtering and would not reach speeds over 10mph. I put flashers on and drove to nearby mechanic. I looked up recalls and safety sites, for this was very unsafe. I found to sites for accelerator pedal sticking safety issues dealing with the throttle boy. I am paying for repairs but also looking into why dodge put me in this unsafe situation. I have a heart condition and was very afraid driving it while it was sputtering and shaking and not driving safe at all.
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer writes in regards to accelerator problems. *smd the consumer stated the accelerator pedal was replaced, but no luck resolving the loss of power problem. Also, the ABS light illuminated and a bell would start alarming when the accelerator didn't react after being pressed. The consumer believed the throttle body gear wore the sprocket down on the lowest gear.
I have 2007 dodge caliber and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights and signal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my signal lights or nothing was working.
I was driving and the car stalled out and a car almost hit me. I found out later that the throttle body messed up and shut may car down.. Dodge should really recall this.
I was driving on the interstate going at 70-75 MPH and all of a sudden my cruise control shut off. This wasn't the main issue though, as I tried to accelerate, it wouldn't work and almost felt like I was stuck in neutral. Luckily I was close to my exit when this happened. As I started to accelerate off of the ramp to the highway, it went very slow (no more than 5 MPH during the turn) and I was luckily able to make it back home. When I tried to start the car again, it acted like an old lawnmower trying to start and sounded awful. A few hours later I called a repair shop and when I went to start it, it acted like everything was fine other than the check engine light still being on. I was told some sort of sensor needed to be replaced and will be getting it repaired soon for around 75 bucks.
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly. My electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on. My power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as I had to muscle the car to the side of the road. Thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum. The car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after I pulled over. After about 15 minutes, I started the car and limped it home. Couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph. Used my flashers the entire way home.
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