First my car started to sound like a dryer full of ball bearings the ball bearing the oem ones in the alternator went out. There is no replacement pulley so the whole alternator had to be replaced $600+ (found out this is a common problem in 2007 dodge calibers) then while pulling out of the parking lot my tire fell off due to faulty/worn-out I ball joints and upper and lower control arms.. Had to replace the entire front end suspension $1400+! (this is a major complaint as I have found online. I have read over 200 different complaint statements) not to mention my ABS light was on and they had to change out my speed sensor 100 +. Then my ck engine light came on 2 weeks after the entire front end suspension was replaced when I drove the car it would shake and acted like it was losing power & would not let me accelerate past 35 MPH. I took it in it had several stored codes. One was then intake manifold was stuck and the other was the camshaft.. They cleared it out and only the manifold came back up so they said I had to replace that. We did $800 + I picked it up & a day later it was doing the same thing now saying multi. Cylinder misfire & camshaft they cleared it and test drove it but it did not come back on so the dodge tech. Has no clue what to do to fix it & no clue on the cost ( this has also been a problem on 2007 dodge calibers) this has all happened within the last 3 months and my car has about 86000 to 87000 mi on it! I?m fed up this car is falling apart. As I have read dodge knows of these issues & has done nothing about it I have also called and made my complaint no call back yet..any open lawsuits on this? I would even be happy if dodge would reimburse me for these issues as obviously they are well documented known issues. I have spent way to much on this car in 3 months and @ 7 months pregnant with a 6 year old I need a safe reliable car!
2007 Dodge Caliber electrical complaints
Page 7 of 8: complaints 161 to 190 of 197, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and I see that it is a very common issue. The other day the driver side decided to turn off as well. What happens when I'm driving in the dark and the one headlight that I do have decides to turn off and I get into an accident. A recall needs to be set into motion on this part. Apparently the tipm causes many issues other than just what I'm experiencing.
The recall cannot be completed because of faulty wiring by viking dodge of crystal lake. This dealership is out of business. I have documentation that the cruise control installed by viking dodge was not a mopar approved part. I have furnished chrysler all the documentation stating that this is causing a problem with the throttle pedal. They have told me I am responsible for correcting the incorrect installation by one of there old dealerships.
While the vehicle was under warranty, the rear wiper and the radio stopped functioning normally. The wiper did not work at all, and the radio was losing the sound when the engine was running but was normal when on acc. Dealer re flashed the tipm and said if it ever happened again, I should disconnect the battery and hold the leads together for about five minutes and it should function normally again. A few months later, the rear wiper stopped and the radio began to fade out once again. I disconnected the battery as instructed but to no avail. Both dealers I took my vehicle to have gone out of business. The nearest dealer is over 200 miles away. I have lived with this problem now for two years. Now, mysteriously, the rear wiper has begun to function once again all by its self. The radio?.....not at all. I have been told that the tipm is probably at fault. I suggested that to the mechanic while my vehicle was still under warranty but I was assured that there was nothing wrong with the tipm so dodge would not replace the unit. This is the second time a dodge component of mine had failed while under warranty and dodge would not replace the unit. Dodge would wait until after my vehicle(s) were out of warranty and at that point I was told the unit(s) needed replacement. Is this some kind of scam that automobile dealers run? I feel that dodge should replace my tipm at no cost to me since I specifically noted this issue while the vehicle was still under warranty.
I purchased this car used from a dealership due to the fact that I have an hour drive to and from work and it appeared to have great gas mileage. Within my first two weeks of ownership the starter was stuck engaged as I drove and caught fire. This I replaced knowing with age, starters and alternators die. A month after servicing the starter, I was driving on the interstate at a speed of 67mph in heavy traffic when a lightening bolt (electronic throttle control sensor light) flashed and the car jerked as if it were to stall. I contacted my local dodge dealer who informed me that it probably was the throttle body and that I might as well drive the car for a bit because the light was not staying lit. Every since then the light has flashed on atleast once a month with the car violently jerking as to stall. I started the car last week and the idle was miserable so figured the throttle body had gone. Took the car to the local dealership to read codes on the pc. Code was for the throttle body. The throttle body was replaced by a certified dealership mechanic. Within 30 miles and 30mins after leaving the garage the car was jerking to stall as before but the light was not on. Seem to be a serious problem considering stall on interstate at those speeds and hit by a semi would cause instant death. The value of my car is no longer high but you can guarantee the loan and payments are. I am a preschool teacher and make a very small income. Took car instantly back to dealership but I know they will find nothing, charge to much, and send me on my way with a death sentence. Seems as though dodge/chrysler has decided that as long as no deaths it is ok to carry on with this refusal to admit that they made a bad product. How about robbing! All I want is my car fixed but of course they will not admit anything. Suppose I will have to call the news, fax the ceo's, and die .
While driving over the whitestone bridge in ny, at the crest of the bridge the vehicles electronic throttle control failure reducing the speed of vehicle from 50 MPH to 5 MPH in the course of less then a minute. I was nearly killed by a tractor trailer truck who was able to swerve around my car. The cart rolled down the bridge with limited power. From all the complaints I am reading on various caliber websites this seems to be a serious dangerous condition that should be reviewed before someone gets killed.
I have had constant problems with this car. My key abruptly stopped working last year and I have to pay $500 because the dealership said the computer could no longer recognized my key so I had to get a new one. My gear shaft began to jam and I had to pay $200 to get a chip replaced because it was shot. Now my totally incorporated power module was shot today when I took it to get checked at the dealership today. The cost is estimated to be $1150. I am sick and tired of all the problems this car is presenting in my life.
The lights behind the dash went out without warning. There is no way to see speed in the dark. There are many existing cases online. Dodge immediately recognized the issue when called and was not concerned about safety issue.
Problems with the totally integrated power module. My head lights are not working properly.
At approx 6pm on 11/11 while attempting to enter the interstate my vehicle began to jerk violently. The check engine light began to blink and the vehicle would not exceed 35 MPH. I took the vehicle to a local autozone to have it diagnostic. Multiple misfires on all cylinders. I had the spark plugs replaced that weekend because my dealers repair shop was full. Problem still occurred so I left the car at the dealer for them to check the engine. The camshaft sensor needs to be replaced. This is not covered under the 50,000 miles engine and power train warranty because it is not a moving part. I just had to replace both ball joints and upper and lower control arms on the car in june. It is currently at 42,600 miles. The alignment is off again so I'm suspecting the ball joints are going bad again.
Was driving 35-40 MPH when etc light came on and car was jolting forward and losing power back and forth. Belletire wouldn't touch it cuz they said it seemed to them like a recall issue. He said that either the ecu needed reset or the drive by wire system was malfunctioning . This is also after my control arms were bad at 48000 mile. Both of these problems I have had have thousands of complaints online for them and are notorious for these problems.
I had the car for a year and when I went to get my annual inspection, the inspection place stated the car computer chip is not able to read.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 to 50 MPH, all of the lights on the instrumental panel illuminated and the engine began to lose power before there was an increase in the engine rpms to 8,000. The vehicle then began to suddenly accelerate and when the brakes were engaged, the smart braking system activated. As a result, the vehicle fish tailed. The contact lost control of the vehicle, but was able to maneuver to the side of the road. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance because the vehicle was not included in the recall associated with the federal safety agency campaign id number 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) and the warranty expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 88,000. The consumer stated around 30,000 he began to experience major electrical problem. The lights, car alarm, power windows and power locks were all affected. The radio, horn and LED panels were having minor issues. The vehicle was still under warranty, so therefore the dealer fixed the vehicle in a timely fashion. The vehicle performed as designed up until 50,000 miles when the problems returned. However, only the power locks and car alarm were affected. The vehicle was no longer warranty and since they were minor, the consumer learned to just live with. However, on august 4, 2011 as the consumer was driving, the vehicle suddenly went haywire. The instrument panel was blinking on and off, the dome lights were flashing, the radio shut off and the brakes stopped functioning. The vehicle the accelerated out of control and the consumer lost control of the vehicle. The ABS light illuminated and the vehicle started braking itself to compensate for the acceleration. The vehicle then fish tailed as the consumer was trying to make a left turn. Updated 09/29/11. Jb
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 30 MPH when all of the lights on the instrument panel illuminated and the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The contact also mentioned that after the ABS lamp illuminated, the system engaged which caused him to temporarily lose control of the vehicle. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance since the vehicle was out of warranty. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 88,000.
Had to replace alternator and my airbag light continually comes on. My sister has the same problem with her dodge and hers is a different model..
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 60 MPH, the vehicle stalled without warning. In addition, the electronic throttle control warning light was illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The vehicle was inspected by an independent mechanic who advised that the alternator needed to be replaced. The dealer was contacted and the part was ordered. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
Last week I started noticing a loud rattle in the engine of my caliber. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the belt tensioner. I got it replaced and it got rid of the squeaking noise but not the rattle. I did research online and discovered that many people were having alternator problems and showed similar symptoms as mine did. I contacted the dealer and said that it would be $680 to replace. I decided to go with another mechanic because it was cheaper. This mechanic replaced it and showed me the old part, it was completely burnt. He said that there should be no way that a car with 60,000 miles on it should have an alternator in this condition. He also mention that it could have caught on fire. Why is there not a recall on this?
The turn signal stayed on, everything electric shut off, then when I put the car in park and took out my key, the car was still running!! This happened twice and no one can figure out what could possibly be wrong. Then my check engine light went on. The diagnostic test read p0708. I was told I cannot simply fix this sensor, that I would need a whole new transmission. My car is 4 years old and has 53,000 miles on it! How could I need a new transmission, who can afford a new transmission!? The car has been extremely well taken car of, normal oil changes, inspections, I just bought 2 new front tires! This is unbelievable.
Almost a year ago my 2007 dodge caliber sxt started jerking back and forth and felt like it was going to die. The electronic throttle body light came on but as soon as I slowed down, the light went off. I called my local dealership and told them about the problem. They stated that if the light in the dashboard wasn't staying on they could not get a code from the car but I could bring it in and they could try it anyways for $105. I took it someone I know and they read the code off of it, 2120 p2110, I called the dealership back and told them the code. They told me that they would have to run their own tests and charge me to see what was happening but if there was no light than they couldn't do anything. I asked them if this is dangerous to drive then because I have a baby in the car. They said no, as long as I can pull over fast enough to restart the car. Last friday, the car started to do it again and I was on the highway with my 2 yr old in the car. My car started loosing power and the car behind me almost hit me so I turned around and got my fiance's car. When I tried to take it to the dealership the next morning the car would not go above 2000 rpms and so I drive 10 MPH all the way through the city (I got up to 30 MPH down hills). I think that all of this is dangerous and having dealerships telling people that they cannot fix the problem is crazy! The dealership now wants to replace my entire throttle body and I am wondering if a replacement would have been avoided if they would have looked at the car last year!
My 2007 dodge caliber stalls out while I'm driving. It has 50,000 miles on the speedometer and I purchased it used last sept 2009. The problem occurred about 5 times before I decided to take it to a local mechanic to have a diagnostic test run. The dashboard warning signal would come on signifying "electronic throttle control". This issue has come up in different driving conditions but usually in the first 15mins of driving. Usually I am at a stop and then when I attempt to accelerate , the car dies. It starts right back up but, because I lose power, I'm forced to pull over in traffic unexpectedly. This is a definite safety concern for me. The vehicle will be at the dodge dealership tomorrow so that their mechanics can look it over. I have been in touch with chrysler at 800‑853‑1403 and have been told this issue has not been reported as a problem/trend.
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 MPH, both front axles failed. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and repaired under warranty. The contact also experienced problems with the radio and the problem was repaired by the dealer. The contact was driving 25 MPH when the vehicle suddenly downshifted. The contact believed the failure within recall 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) was the cause of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The VIN was unavailable. The failure mileage was approximately 27,000 and the current mileage was 36,400.
The totally integrated power module on left side of the engine compartment is not working. So ,the brake lights & horn do not work . However, the individual component was tested the brake lights & horn work individually. I don't know how long I have been driving like this but one of my co workers told me my brake lights were out because he almost hit me in the rear. This part is not covered under warranty because it is not part of the engine. It will cost apprx. $820 for repair. Which I cannot afford at this time. I am reporting this because it is a safety issue driving without brake lights or a horn. Someone can get seriously hurt or possibly die from driving like this.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber. I can remove the key from the ignition without putting the car in "park". This allows the car to roll when it is not on. This is a safety concern, as I have on multiple occasions exited the car, at which time it begins to roll away. There is currently a recall for certain 2010 chrysler products (the federal safety agency campaign #10v200000). I believe this should be extended to include 2007, if not the years in between as well.
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximate 30 MPH the vehicle stalled and the transmission light illuminated. She drove onto the emergency lane for 20 minutes and the vehicle began to function normally. The dealer replaced the computer chip. The failure happened a week later and was taken back to dealer who stated that they did not know how to fix the failure. She then took the vehicle to another dealer who replaced the transmission. Two weeks later the vehicle stalled again. The contact stated the dealership advised her that they would call her when special technicians came from chrysler. The dealer never notified her. The failure mileage was 42,000 and the current mileage was 43,000.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber in april 08, it had 12,00 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles. It is making a loud clicking noise in the front end. I can feel it in the steering wheel and on the floor board whenever I make a turn or go over a bump. I do not have a warranty, and the dealer wants 75.00 just to look at the car. Also, while driving with my small child, my turn signals, high beam headlights, and wipers just stopped working. I have looked at hundreds of other complaints about these same issues, but I do not know of any recalls for these same issues. This is an extreme safety issue while driving. I am not sure how I will be able to pay for these problems with the car. Wondering how dodge can get away with these same issues happening with thousands of calibers and them not be held liable to fix it at their cost? Will never buy a dodge again! Thank you, and I hope to see recalls very soon for these issues!
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25-30 MPH, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck when it was depressed and the vehicle accelerated up to 80 MPH. When the contact applied the brakes, the vehicle did not slow down. The steering wheel would not move and the gear shift lever would not shift into park. When she applied the emergency brake, the vehicle spun over a sidewalk into a parking lot. The identical failure occurred when she attempted to restart the vehicle; therefore, she towed the vehicle to an authorized dealer. Two months prior to the failure, the keys became stuck in the ignition for thirty minutes. The dealer had not informed the contact what caused the failure to occur. The contact stated that she experienced headaches and neck pain after the failure occurred. The current and failure mileages were approximately 60,000.
Positive battery post on original manufacturer battery came loose from body and released battery acid into engine compartment. Battery acid ate through protective coating on wires to main electrical and caused car to stall and malfunction.
On saturday, 5/30/09, while driving dodge caliber 2007 back home, all instrument gauges needles suddenly and erratically swing up and down. I started smelling a rotten-egg sulfur odor and experienced mild throat and lung irritation. As soon as I arrived home, with engine still running, I started investigating the cause of gauges needles erratic motion and source of sulfur odor. First, I checked the recently replaced manufacturer original alternator, which has recently catastrophically failed. Please see recently filed 5/16/09, the federal safety agency safety complaint, odi #10268931. After I verified that the new alternator was working correctly, I started sniffing and tracing the source of sulfur odor. First, I thought odor was coming from computer module; then, I thought it was coming from fuse box next to computer module. As I sniffed closer to fuse box, under plastic engine air intake manifold, I noticed battery squirting boiling-steaming sulfuric acid. I found the source of rotten-egg sulfur odor. I removed the air intake manifold to fully expose the battery and take photos. Luckily, I only suffered mild irritation to my throat and lungs, but I could have been fatally exposed to sulfuric acid gas poisoning, or battery could have exploded with fatal outcome. Photos and battery are available for your review. I don not know if unsafe catastrophic failure of original manufacturer alternator caused this unsafe catastrophic failure of manufacturer original battery or vice-versa.
March 13, 2009, I purchased a used dodge caliber 2007. Few weeks later, I starter hearing noise which kept increasing in intensity as the days went by. I thought it was probably a loose or bad serpentine belt tensioner or idler. On may 17, while driving the car back home, the ABS, air bag, battery, and check engine lights turn on. At home in the driveway, with engine running, when I opened the hood, I noticed sparks around the alternator area. I thought it was the serpentine belt touching a loose metal that was creating the sparks. Today, may 16, I removed the alternator and noticed the alternator windings arced and melted the copper wire windings and the aluminum housing. I have the alternator and pictures readily available for your evaluation. I did a google search and discovered that other dodge cavalier owners have experience the same premature catastrophic failure of the alternator. This catastrophic failure is very unsafe and could have resulted in fire, explosion, accident, and fatalities. There are no known recalls related to this dangerous alternator failure.
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
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