2007 Dodge Caliber: jerking or lurching

Filed Jan 16, 2020 · Acceleration, Electrical · WI

The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. So I replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. I saw its a recall on the 2007 dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem .. Its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family

Filed Apr 1, 2018 · Acceleration, Engine · 89,000 miles · VA

"takata recall" while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 MPH max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly

Filed Jul 20, 2017 · Driver assistance, Engine · 208,000 miles · GA

I have had issues with this vehicle such as the o2 sensors that has to be repaired every year. The safety issues with this vehicle if you are at stop sign or just idle in traffic- the engine light will begin to blink and the car begins to move back and forth..also, it constantly over heats after much repairs- these symptoms continue to persist-the gentleman at good year told me that some of your parts o2 sensor was recalled- failed to get assistance from chrysler- the overheating is annoying- I can not drive over 45 miles without over heating. I had to pull over at the exit while other cars- with incoming traffic was coming very fast and the car is in motion on the highway with other drivers- because the car begins to pull - I have to pull over so that the engine can cool down- ..sometimes in traffic- the ABS light will come on and begin to shift gears in traffic- this happens occasionally. The safety issues are engine overheats, start jerking back and forth at stop signs or just being idle in traffic, occasionally just shift acceleration in the middle of traffic. Th most recent incident was last night- I had to pull over- car started jerking- it overheated- 07-19-2017 I am filing another complaint- called chrysler said that I had to pay for the diagnostic testing on something that is their manufacturer fault.

Filed Nov 5, 2016 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 74,000 miles · CA

My car will as I'm driving cut off lose all power starts shaking jerking and won't above 5to7 miles an hour happens all time driving with my kids from school it does on freeway very unsafe almost got rear-ended a couple times very scary

Filed Nov 17, 2015 · Steering, Wheels · 165,000 miles · FL

Husband was driving our 2007 dodge caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second u-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.

Filed Oct 7, 2015 · Transmission · 113,230 miles · SC

Whenever the vehicle attempts to accelerate it begins jerking and shaking. Won't shift properly. It had done before, after I had owned the vehicle for 4 years. At that time the transmission had to be replaced. It is now another 4 years later I am going through the same thing and the dealership says I need another transmission.

Filed Aug 24, 2015 · Acceleration, Electrical · 95,000 miles · KS

On my way home from work I stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well. I went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (I work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so I got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on. My headlight also stopped working and I replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! I just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since I was not able to fix it I had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks I was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now I have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general. My car dies at almost every stop light and if I go over 2rpm it will not acclerate. I had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since I dont make much money. The car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts. I dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most calibers so I stuck it out but now I dont know whats going to happen. As of today, august 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the AC stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!

Filed Apr 22, 2015 · Steering, Suspension · 92,000 miles · CT

Driving normally on a town road and I heard a thud. Steering wheel jerked and came back to center. Car swerved into the oncoming traffic lane. Drove home at a steady crawl with front end shaking and feeling real loose. Checked my front end and could see my spring binding over the strut and strut mounts were squeaking and making noise while turning the steering wheel. Strut rods were stuck and would not compress. Ordered new struts and mounts. Will be replacing as soon as they come in. Glad this didn't happen on the highway and there were no cars coming in the oncoming lane or there would have been a serious crash.

Filed Aug 21, 2014 · Suspension · 85,000 miles · KS

Every time I go over a bump it make a horrible squeaking/ jerking motion I've looked on there and it seems everyone is having the same issues, I replaced the struts thinking that was it and it seemed the sound got worse. I shouldn't be replacing all this that early, this car has nothing by highway miles. It literally sounds like my tires are gonna fly off. This really worries me because I have small children.

Filed Mar 6, 2014 · Engine, Transmission · 70,539 miles · AL

I was driving my car on I-10 and the car suddenly jerked and slowed down despite my foot still being on the gas pedal, the car began to shake and then the engine stopped on the middle of the road. I coasted to the median, and waited for 3-4 minutes, (mostly to catch my breath as I was lucky I was not run over by semi's) I restarted the MPH was the norm) I had to put on my hazard lights and drive to the next exit. The mechanic said the control board for the crankshaft was blown and needed to be replaced. Seems like a very dangerous situation for other drivers and owners of a dodge caliber if it is a common defect. 07dodcaliber/pc684 dodge crankshaft position sensor.

Filed Feb 18, 2014 · Electrical, Engine · 82,150 miles · CO

Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.

Filed Jan 31, 2014 · Acceleration, Electrical · 130,000 miles · TX

The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this I researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.