The AC delco battery post came off of the battery. The clamp and cable were tight, the post was eaten in two from the inside.
2002 Chevrolet Impala electrical complaints
Page 11 of 11: complaints 281 to 305 of 305, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I purchased my '02 impala through the corporate leasing company of my father's employer. He had no problems with the car other than the transmission fluid turning black by 85,000 miles. When I got the car in june of '05, it was at 121,000 miles, I drove the car around all day, parked the car for 5 minutes, and when I went to start it, nothing happened. The dash lit up, the radio came on, but the car didn't turn over, not even a clicking sound, indicative of a dead battery. I waited 10 minutes, tried again and it started right up. I went for another month without any problems, however in late july, the car failed to start. Again I waited 10-15 minutes, and it started right up. This continued sporadically until october 20, when it took 30 minutes of waiting to get it to crank. I took the car to a local gm dealer, who put it on the machine and advised me that the bcm (body control module) had failed and was sending a signal to the passlock system telling it that my keys were incorrect. The service writer informed me that a new bcm installed would run about $500.00, and the service tech advised that this has become a common failure in both the impala and the malibu, which gm has yet to recall. The technician did suggest that a more cost effective option existed with several of the after-market shops, in which a bypass-relay was installed under the dash, to block the erroneous signals from the bcm, which will allow the vehicle to operate normally. The cost for this bypass is about $55.00 and takes approximately an hour to install. The only problem with this solution, is it blocks the key recognition feature of the passlock system, which will make it easier to steal, if someone can start it without damaging the key ignition. I think it is necessary for gm to understand that a vehicle's failure to start due to faulty component in the anti-theft system is a very serious concern which needs to addressed.
2002 chevy impala ls car stalls at highway speeds, often after hitting large bump, resulting loss of power brakes and power steering is dangerous. Full text of correspondence with gm, postings on line and search of tsb is available.
Dt: the consumer states that the 2002 chevrolet impala is having a problem on the security feature on the bcm. The instrument panel lights up and the car will start, and sometimes it will not. The car has been taken to the dealership for diagnostic testing. The dealer found that the body control module was faulty. The consumer did not have the car repaired because she did not have the money to pay for it. The car is still starting intermittently. The consumer called gm, and they referred her to the federal safety agency. Gm made a file of her complaint. The consumer stated specifically that she had been stranded several times because of this and she considered that a safety issue because she has five kids. The consumer said that she had a problem with the security feature for the past year.
Starting 2/05 I have had the "security" warning light and my engine fail to start on 3 separate occasions. I had to replace the bcm the first time but have now been told that there is a tsb on this issue and that, per gm, I need to replace the ignition switch and associated parts to prevent my vehicle from shutting down on the road. If that is not a safety hazard I don't know what is. Gm knows about this but will not stand behind it's defect until a major accident happens. They should do a recall and have these all repaired before a major accident does take place. They should be held accountable before a life is lost because of a well known documented flaw.
Problem with message center, security lite comes on then battery lite, then service vehicle soon, then air conditioning would not turn on, started funny, did not start turning over when I first turned the key it started to turn over about 1 sec after turning the key and started ok then. All of this happened a the same time for the first time. Prior to this I reported a popping/snapping noise when you turned the key. The chev dealer said this was normal (3 weeks prior to the problem).
Headlites go dim and then get brighter, this happens off and on, by themselves.
Dt: the rear of the vehicle caught on fire. The engine was not destroyed, but the seats were down to the wires. The vehicle had just been parked when he noticed a spark come from the rear driver side. The vehicle has not been inspected, but the insurance company states they are going to inspect it. The back windshield shattered before this, approximately three months prior. The vehicle was idling erratically before the vehicle caught on fire. The manufacturer has not been contacteed but according to the dealership they have to determine if the vehicle is still under warranty. The fire department did respond. They thought it might be because of electrical wiring. The police did respond, but did not file a report. This happened july 3, 2005.
2002 chevy impala the security light goes on when driving. After a short period of time when driving this way the car will not start after being turned off. A friend who has a newer impala has had secuirty light go on while driving and the engine totally shut down . Very serious implications could arrive if on highway or bridge and car dies.
Ignition switch - malfunctioned. Y have something to do with security light. Had to be replaced by dealer service.
I recently(3-7-05) purchased a used 2002 chevy impala from my uncle. He told me that based on info received from a former gm mech.; there was a starter problem that he had yet to experience. I have had the car a little over 3 weeks now and have experienced the problem 4 times in the last 5 days. I replaced the starter yesterday(3-23-05) based on what my uncle had told me. 20 minutes after installing the new 1 the car did not start. Called a local dealership this morning(3-24-05) and was told that the problem was with the body control module and the ignition cylinder. This dealer told me that he has 1 monte carlo/impala come in every month with this problem. I asked him if it was recall on the part(s). He told me "no" and the the replacement cost was between $450-600. Now I'm out $250 for a starter I didn't need and being told I'm looking @ another bill around $500. In my opinion 1 car a month is too many and that was at just 1 dealer. I have 14 chevrolet dealers within 15 miles of my house. That is 168 cars just near me in 1 year. I think this needs to be looked into.
Both left and right hub bearing assembly have been diagnosed as loose. An independent repair shop advised that both need to be replaced before an alignment could be performed. John wigant of walker chevrolet told me, prior to a written statement, that both sides exhibit a worn out diagnosis, but that only one side should be replaced now and that the other might never need to be replaced or it could get worse. In a written statement from john wigant of walker chevrolet, I was informed that only the passenger side bearing should be replaced. I have had other problems with rotors that literally shook my front end and steering column during the warranty period of 36,000 miles. And the intermediate shaft has been repaired and replaced 3 times. The last time it was reported on november 18, '04 and not repaired until december 30, '04 at 53,267 miles. I have been advised that replacing these hub bearings will cost me about $1,000.00 to repair. I have read another complaint in the federal safety agency files that a same year impala front wheel or axle fell off and caused a driver to veer off the road. I feel that the past rotor and intermediate shaft problems have exasperated this wear and caused it to be a bigger problem. I have had problems with the electrical system, speedometer cable, radio, and rear window. All have been serviced, but continue to exhibit the same problems that existed before repair or replacement.
When the consumer accelerated from a stop he heard a clicking noise. *nm the transmission had gone out. The battery had gone dead and had a crack in it. Also, while the vehicle was in motion, going 65 MPH in cruise, the motor suddenly sped up then slowed down and a grinding noise was heard. *sc
Vehicle fails to start - motor does not crank, starter does not engage. Tests show battery, starter, alternator circuits are good - no error codes given. Vehicle engine runs rough and the gas mileage has decreased considerably. Local mechanic states that general motors is having a problem with the computers overwriting its own code and therefore causes problems, such as this, with the vehicle. Vehicle starts occasionaly at best. Vehicle is unreliablbe - cannot trust it to start when needed. Going to call dealer to check if there is a "silent recall" to correct the problem. Otherwise, will attempt to use the federal safety agency service bulletin #00214a to try to get program reloaded into vehicle's computer without charge though I expect very little help, if any, from a dealer.
While traveling on a residential street the car cut off without warning. The next week while on the highway traveling at 70 MPH the car cut off again which was very dangerous. Once I got it started it cut off about 4 more times before I could get home. The dealer replace the fuse box. Now about 7 months later the problem is happening again. I informed gmac and they told me to go back to the dealer. I guess so they can have another chance to hurt someone this time.
My 2002 chevy impala ls has had a problem, since buying it in may 2002, with the headlights dimming to the point of cutoff then coming back to full intensity in a rapid fashion. I have had the alternator, battery, belts, cables/wires checked but to no avail. I do notice that if I accelerate sharply, over 3000 RPM, the problem goes away for a while, suggesting there is a charging problem. This problem is intermittent, but is increasing in frenquency as my odo reaches 23,000 miles.
I wanted him to check my driver side back door because it wouldn't open very easily at times, and the window to that same door would not open at times. Also, my trunk wouldn't open when one would use the trunk release button at times. I also had him check my dimming headlights, my steering which had a jerk in it when I went around curves, clicking sound in engine and an over all check since my warranty is about to run out in 1,000 miles. Turn out-after leaving the dealer my air conditioner was humming like a helicopter, my brakes were horrible and grinding and the car feels like it has no get up and go power. I took my car to brake check after leaving because when the dealer did the overall check of my car they said I needed a front brake job. And they wanted to charge me over 200.00 dollars. The dealer told me it was not covered under my warranty. Well brake check took off all four tires and found that my problem was due to left and right caliper problems on the inboard side and left rear hard wear problems and wear on the outboard side. The caliper is engaging but not disengaging and caused my pads to wear out and my rotors are ate up. The pads are not worn evenly which is definitely a sign of caliper problems. Also, the dealer upon the overall inspection of my car said that my intake gaskets were ruined and leaking coolant. They said they replaced them, however I am afraid that there is further damage to my vehicle that they are not telling me, just like my brakes. Due to the fact that steve at lone star told me that it was caused due to lack of oils changes and gil said it was a problem with the gaskets being improperly seated from the factory or just a defect in the gasket. Well is this why my car has no get up anymore? My car also made a grinding sound when hitting bumps under the right front fender area that nothing was done about and my headlight problem they said was due to a faulty battery cable.
The car stalls on the freeways or side streets without any warnings, and I lose control the power of the car and the brakes. It happened several times and the dealers are not able to repair it.
An unconnected wire rendered the vehicle antilock brake system inoperable which in turn resulted in an accident.
When attempting to start vehicle, consumer states' sometimes vehicle won't start. Consumer has to try about three times before vehicle will start. Cause is unknown. Dealer has been contacted. Please provide any further information. Ts
The horn on 2002 model was harder to push than on the older models due to design flaw. The consumer stated that the horn design safety problem could cause a serious accident and should be recalled.
Pressing horn button takes a lot of effort. Dealer said it was designed that way, and there was nothing that could be done.
At 45mph the vehicle shuts off with no warning and will not start back up. Cause unknown. Dealer notified.
Consumer returned to her car which was parked in a parking lot to find it on fire, consumer states the problem occurred due to faulty wiring.
Horn is very hard to locate and activate when needed. Dealer has been notified. *ak the sevrice manager says that air bags makes it difficult to blow the horn during an emergency condition. All impalas and malibus have the same problem.
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