My power steering went out after I got my car. My starter doesn’t work I have to use a button on my keys to always start my car the key will not start my car. It’s very hard to turn my car and it went out while I was making a turn and myself siblings and boyfriend almost got hit by an oncoming car. The car has not been inspected, I can have my car looked at most likely upon request unless I have work but I can come in the next available day. There were no messages or warnings to my car or any symptoms before they went out.
2010 Ford Escape: won't start
18 of the 2,071 complaints about the 2010 Ford Escape describe won't start.
- owner complaints
- 18
- of this car's complaints
- 1%
- typical mileage
- 83,500
- recalls
- 0
Won't start by model year
What owners say
Cannot start vehicle! Problem seems to be in the ignition switch. Key will not turn forward enough to engage starter. Problem started years ago and now has progressed to this point where it will not start at all using the ignition. Thanks!
I've replaced ignition switch twice, and now having to replace ignition housing. Left me stranded several times. I was stationary and vehicle would not start. This made me late for work and school.
Igniton switch fails to work half the time turn key will not start without excessive tries
For the last 2 months or so, when I have turned the key in the ignition, the vehicle would not start. I would have to turn the key back to the off position & try repeatedly to turn the key all the way forward to finally get the vehicle to start. Because of past problems with the vehicle engine dying suddenly on me & in particular a couple times when I was turning the steering wheel & my right hand happen to gently brush the key in the ignition.... I now wondered if I could start the engine my simply gently turning the steering wheel. The next time I turned the key all the way forward to start the engine & nothing happened I kept the key turned all the way forward in the ignition & tried to gently turn the steering wheel... The engine came right on. Quite alarming & scary to think that you can turn the engine on by turning the steering wheel. Explains why the engine easily turned off in the past when my right hand barely touched the key in the ignition & I lost power steering. Perhaps ford's safety recall 14v‑284 was actually about this problem & not the torque sensor they claimed... That situation involved an electric power steering system fault & loss of power steering as well. A local ford dealer (1-7-2020) charged me $618 to replace the lock housing & the problem has not happened since. Hopefully I don't lose power steering again any time soon again. The vehicle has just over a 100,000 miles & has been horribly horribly horribly unreliable. We bought this junk brand new & neither ford nor the dealer have ever reached out to us to right this wrong. Nearly $40,000 wasted for an unreliable vehicle that I would be lucky to get $3,000 for on a trade-in not to mention that I am scared a new unaware owner could lose power steering suddenly & not know how to react.... Especially @ high speed & in a turn in a road. God help you if your not strong & calm.
The anti-theft signal keeps coming on in my car. When I am moving and not moving all the warning in my car comes on. The speedometer goes to zero, the gas gage goes to empty, etc with all the other warning lights. I was driving on the highway and all of sudden every single warning light came on. I immediately got off the next exit and parked at a gas station. I turned the car off, but it would not start for about 10 minutes. I finally got it to start and drove quickly to work. I took the car that afternoon to ford service. They said it was my ignition, so they changed the part and charged me over $320. When I drive my car the next morning, it happened again. I took my car to ford again that morning. Now they tell me the board that had the electrical parts is corroded, so they changed that and charged over $720. The next day after I took the car home it happened for a quick moment, but then it stopped. Today 10/18/17 which is 2 days after I picked my car up from ford service I let my car warm up in the morning for about 10 mins, but when I got in the car all the warning lights came on again. This time the car would not start at all and the anti-theft warning light kept blinking each time. So I had to call a tow truck. So now I have no car, I'm out over $1,000 and I have to get a car rental. And ford service continues to charge each time including a diagnostic test for over $100. I didn't know I had an anti-theft system and I don't need one. There is nothing wrong with the car, but ford service is not able to fix this. I don't feel safe driving the car and I don't know what I am going to do now. In my opinion this is a ford manufacturing problem and I should not be charged to fix this problem. I don't want an anti-theft system. I want my money back. I have pictures for two of the times this happened. Although it happened more than two times.
*p2111 throttle actuator control system-stuck open* the first time it happened I was pulling on to the highway from a side road when I went to accelerate my car started to shake and jerk then lost power. I was able to limp it to a side street where I turned it off and then tried turning it back on again, my car wouldn't turn over at first and took three times before it finally cam back on with no problems at all and I took it back home where it stayed till a friend could come look at it. Nothing was found at first. The second time this happened I was driving down the road and I started to lose power I was able to pull into o'reily's where they hooked it up to the computer and came up with the code listed above.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 ford escape. While parked, the ignition was difficult to turn and once it was started the ignition remained stuck in the start position causing the starter to remain engaged. The contact stated that he would have to hit the ignition for it to come out of the starting position. The vehicle would not start on several occasions. While driving at 30 MPH, the vehicle started to experience a loss of power as if it would stall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The VIN was not provided. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 180,000.
The first time this happened I was coming to a stop during rush hour traffic in feb 2014. I was slowing down to stop when I noticed the red battery & wrench light come on. When I tried to accelerate the vehicle wouldn't move & the engine was off. I attempted to restart the vehicle several times with no luck. The dash lights & radio would work but it wouldn't start. I had to be pushed out of traffic. While waiting for the tow truck I tried again & it started (approximately after 15 min). I immediately took it to the ford dealer. They "supposedly" fixed it under a recall. It just happened again (oct 2014) to me while coming to a stop during rush hour. Again the lights turned red and the engine died. I attempted to restart several times without any luck. The dash lights & radio worked but it wouldn't start. Finally after several attempts it started again. I'm waiting for my appointment with the ford dealer. This issue needs to be reviewed before someone gets seriously hurt given that the engine dies without notice. Plus the "repair" didn't work!
At night, while stopped on red traffic light waiting for change to green, the vehicle stalls an shut off. Did not start right over until a while. All dashboard panel lights were on. After 45 minutes tried to start it and it just move very, very slow and did not accelerate until it died again a 100 feet farther. We call road assistance to take us home in a towing truck. At the other day we call the towing truck again to take the SUV to the dealer since it was in warranty, when we start it before leaving it was working fine. The service tech at ford tell us that probably it is the throttle body since other people has been having the same issue. They test it and they say that nothing is wrong... My warranty is about to expire and I think that they are playing us to take the unit home and when it happen again charge us for the cost of the part... $$$$ very expensive!!! This is a hazardous issue since it can happen while driving it can cause an accident or lost of life.
First incident: 05/03/2013: AC stopped working properly. Car sputtered. Stopped. Would not accelerate. Dash lights came on: battery, wrench, etc. Lost power. Then would accelerate. Pulled over and had towed. Dealer ford service department inspected. Replaced bad floor actuator motor - cc42.. Fixed under warranty as owner was only 3 weeks out of 3 year warranty, with a mileage of only 34,646 miles. (invoice receipt: test codes performed by dealer: p2111, p2112, monitor pids. Oasis-ssm 32170. Replaced throttle body, reset kam, cc42.) second incident: 11/17/2013: similar to 05/03/2013 incident. Ac stopped cooling. Turned off car. Tried to start and dash lights came on. Car acted like it would start, sputtered and would not start back up. Waited 30 minutes. Car started back up. Left parked, as felt dangerous situation if were to occur on interstate. Will have towed to my mechanic for inspection. Why, if dealer replaced actuator motor 6 months earlier would same situation occur? There must be another issue causing the actuator motor failure other than the actual motor failure.
After stopping at a stop light I proceeded to accelerate through the intersection when my ford escape began to jerk, then seemed to die in the middle of the intersection. There was no check engine light on and after listening to the engine I realized that it was still running, but there was no gas getting to the engine when I pressed on the accelerator. I let the car roll out of the intersection, turned off the engine and restarted it. After another mile upon stopping before making a left hand turn it stopped again after gaining up to about 10 MPH. I turned the engine off again and when attempting to start it cranked, but would not turn over. On my third attempt to restart the engine it turned over and the check engine light came on.
Service bulletins that may apply
- These SKUs are Exhaust Manifolds with Catalytic Converters
- The Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual has been revised for diagnosing electronic...
- Ford/lincoln/mercury: some vehicles may experience an illuminated MIL or safety stop now message, or a no...
- Ford: the variable camshaft timing vct) solenoid movement may be temporarily restricted due to debris in...
- Ford: after refueling vehicle, would be hard to start, runs rough and an audible clicking noise CAN be heard.
- Ford: there may be a leaking/stuck canister purge valve which CAN cause multiple driving systems
- Ford: there may be a hard start or rough idle accompanied with two trouble codes
- Ford: vehicles may run rough, hard start after refueling, clicking noise under hood, and have trouble...
Related recalls
No recalls on record for this model year.
Questions about the 2010 Ford Escape won't start
Is won't start a common problem on the 2010 Ford Escape?
18 of 2,071 owner complaints about the 2010 Ford Escape (1%) mention won't start. The model year with the most reports is 2013.
Is there a recall or service bulletin for this on the 2010 Ford Escape?
There are 0 recalls and 11 service bulletins for the same area of the car. Check them below with your VIN.
Other symptoms on the 2010 Ford Escape
Stalling 345Loss of power 301Check engine light 240Power steering loss 222Jerking 103Steering lock-up 46Engine failure 45Hesitation 44Won't shift 43Sudden acceleration 27Adaptive cruise 25Misfire 25Fuel leak 24ABS 23Fuel smell 22Harsh shifting 21Transmission failure 19Shudder 16Ball joint 15Warning lights 10Slipping 8Wipers 8Knocking 7Fuel pump 7Steering noise 7Pulling 6Brake failure 5
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