2009 Dodge Journey: doors won't lock, open or latch

Filed Sep 1, 2023 · Acceleration, Electrical · KY

I've gone through 6 batteries in 1 year and I still have to keep jumping my vehicle Everytime I start it. I am currently stranded in Walmart parking lot with no jumper cables and I am being forced to walk now. Also there are times when I am driving down the highway and at any given moment it acts as if I stomped on the brakes. The lights go off and on, the windows roll up and down, the door locks are out of control and the gauges on the dashboard go out of control as well. I recently bought a new TIPM and ECM because when I replaced the battery it would no longer start. This vehicle is very dangerous and I'm sorry I ever bought it. It seems as if dodge cares more about their money than a human life

Filed Feb 20, 2023 · Electrical, Engine · WI · fire

Vehicle owner was driving and pulled over when all warning lights began flashing, wipers came on, horn started honking, windows would not go down, doors would not unlock, and vehicle started on fire. Fire appeared to begin in the engine compartment, with fire eventually consuming entire vehicle.

Filed Jan 7, 2022 · Airbags, Electrical · MI

I have power door locks not working except manually or driver door by key. Key fob and door module for locks will not function. I cannot open the hatch due to power lock function. The Airbag light comes on when vehicle is started and the door is open and only disappears after the door is closed, engine shut off then restarted. Also the engine light came on for awhile then off and is now back on. This is what code scan report says. Engine and Transmission are P0420 Catalyst Efficiency (Bank1), OBDll Codes ($03) is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1. The Airbag is U0172 Lost Commuication w/Left Side Satellite Accelerator Sensor 1- Stored. The Door Module- Front Right (DMFR) is B16A5 Passenger Window Switch Backlighting Circuit High-Stored. Not sure exactly what these all mean but I think the Power Locks are a safety issue along with the Airbags. The power locks don't lock after driving it like they used to after driving so many feet.

Filed Oct 20, 2019 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 114,045 miles · AL

I was stationary in a parking lot. My vehicle has electrical problems when it gets below 50 degrees f. All of my dashboard warning lights come on and my gauges won't register including my fuel, RPM, and speedometer. My turn signals won't work and neither will my emergency hazard lights. My door locks and window controls work intermittently when this happens. My navigation screen/back-up camera will not work and my wiper blades and headlights stay on even though the controls are set to off. My wiper spray nozzles won't work and neither will my high beams. It will stay like this until my vehicle warms up, usually about 20-30 min. I am a nurse and often have to take call at night, so sometimes I don't have time to let it warm up. I have had to download an app that will tell me my speed and pray I don't get into an accident. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they can never find the culprit so it just wastes my time and money.

Filed Feb 5, 2018 · Electrical · 123,000 miles · IL

The car completely shut off going down the road and everything electrical went crazy and the horn wouldn't stop blaring. I couldn't pull over or anything because my steering and my brakes went out. The car finally turned back on by itself and now the window wipers, blinkers, and door locks do not work.

Filed Oct 31, 2017 · Electrical · 95,000 miles · MI

Drivers side door window switch for front windows, door locks and mirror controls does not work, only back windows roll up and down, googled this issue and seems that this is a common problem with the journeys

Filed Aug 5, 2017 · 72,000 miles · TX

The hatch door will not unlock with the key fob or from the door unlock button on the driver's door. It was sitting in a parking lot when I tried to unlock. I also tried several hours later after it had been sitting for at least 4 hours, and nothing will unlock the door.

Filed Nov 2, 2016 · Brakes, Suspension · 160,000 miles · MD

Suspension parts failing constantly, front tie rods, sway bars, struts, ball joints, bushings wear after 10,000 a 15,000 miles. As a result alignment is off and cause unusual wear on the tires resulting in rough uncomfortable ride. Brakes get hot and wear/ squeak after 10k miles, sometimes sooner resulting in hub cap dust and paint chipping. Rear tie rods go bad resulting in rear camber being offset and inside of tires wear real quick. Right side door locks have to be manually locked/ unlocked. Intermittent not starting problems, win module already replaced once due to recall. Driver side window up and down buttons broke off. Front dash rattles bad when taking off/ going over bumps. Rear left side door hinge got loose resulting in spring popping off, now door won't stay open and closes by itself, that's the door that's least used.

Filed Sep 20, 2016 · Electrical · 148,883 miles · NY

After the recall work was completed and we received new key fobs the car will randomly not start. We have taken it to our mechanic repeatedly and he has not been able to find the issue. He has jumpstarted it thinking battery was down, applied dielectric grease to connections, checked it with the computer and could find nothing wrong. Problem keeps recurring with the time and number of attempts increasing until, we have to keep car running on short errands and plan for alternate transportation when we have to go somewhere distant, in case it does not start for several hours. In addition the door locks, randomly fail to lock or unlock when using key fob, and also lock and unlock automatically when driving; warning lights randomly come on and go off, for things like low tire and check engine light but when checked or put on diagnostic computer there is nothing wrong. Warning lights come on when driving and stay on even after car is put on computer then shut off on their own sometimes after a few hours or days. All these started after recall and after reaching 100k miles, just got car back from mechanic after replacing battery last week. He is not sure what issues is but is going to replace a connection wire to see if it helps, because computer says its good. I see similar complaints saying car will start in neutral sometimes and I was told to try it. If it starts he said it may be a safety module, but cannot guarantee it is or will work. This has been happening for nearly 2 years with no resolution. Car is our only vehicle, and we follow all maintenance directions.

Filed Aug 23, 2016 · Electrical, Locks · 35,000 miles · OH

Tl* the contact owns a 2009 dodge journey. The contact stated that when the fob was placed in the ignition, the engine did not start. The vehicle was previously repared per the federal safety agency campaign number: 14v373000 (air bags, electrical system); however, the failure recurred multiple times. The contact was also experiencing electrical failures throughout the vehicle. Also, both side view mirrors were not working, in addition to all of the door locks, master control unit, and child safety locks. The vehicle was unable to detect that the driver's side door was open. Also, the passenger side windows were nonfunctional. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where multiple repairs were made on several occasions. The mechanic replaced numerous modules, fuses, and relays; however, the failures recurred. The manufacturer was not notified of the additional failures and there was no further repairs or diagnostic tests. The failure mileage was 35,000.

Filed Jun 21, 2015 · Electrical, Visibility · 74,000 miles · NY

Attempted to used the remote to unlock the doors but it would not work. Changed the battery still did not work. Had to use the key to unlock the driver door manually. Once in the door locks buttons would not unlock the other doors. Had to open front passenger door manually from insidchre the car. Pull up the door locks on both rear doors in order for the to be opened. Once the car was on we noticed the rear wiper blade does not work nor does the trunk open. There is no manual way to open the trunk at all. I've checked the manual and it never described this issue. Googled it and a lot of others has described this happening to their car but no one can pin point the issue. We changed the fuse this now allowed the driver door only to unlock using the remote, but we still have to manually unlock the rear doors to open them and pull the handle on the front passenger door to open it, as it can't be opened at all from the outside. Changing the fuse did not have an affect on the rear wiper or the trunk. I've never seen a vehicle where the trunk has no other way to be opened. This made it very hard to get to the handle for the spare tire. Received call from customer service after a facebook complaint and they advised we needed to bring it in to the dealer so they can figure it out. We are skeptical because a few months prior to that we took it to the dealer to fix a very bad drag. When you make a left hand turn the car drags and goes really slow and takes a few seconds to get back to normal speed. The dealer charged us close to $500 and did not fix the problem. They fixed something that did not need fixing and told us if was fixed we had to turn around not even a minute after pulling off the lot with it to advise them it was not fixed. They wanted to keep charging us for different things because they could not figure out what it was. We declined because no money for guesses.

Filed Mar 18, 2015 · Electrical · OK

Frequently all exterior and interior lights flash on and off, windshield wipers going off, doors will not unlock, windows will not go down, dash panel flashing (it is as though the car is possessed, the panel will show the gas tank as empty, the temp gauge rises to hot and I have to pull over for fear of engine actually overheating) periodically while in this mode, the vehicle will not start. The vehicle has been into 2 different dealerships. Electrical codes were coming up but could no't be identified, multiple loss of communication codes of the interior could not be identified (they were unable to pin point where they were coming from) I was advised to bring it back when it happened again. Finally friday, march 13, 2015 the car started going haywire and I was able to get into the dealership. While the car was running they were able to diagnose and registered multiple loss of communication codes coming from door windows and dash board, they found they were all connected to the tibm. Due to all of the electrical recalls when I first purchased the vehicle, it is my opinion that they have known all along that the journeys had electrical issues. The 2012 model was recalled because of them. I feel tibm has been the issue all along. I travel back and forth 100 miles weekly some times twice a week on the highway picking kids up from school and can not afford to be stranded on the highway nor can I afford to purchase a new vehicle. The dealership is charging me over 1200.00 for replacement of the tibm. I called chrysler/dodge care and they stated because my car is out of warranty, they can't help me. I am currently in dispute with them because, these problems were happening while the car was under warranty and they held my car for weeks trying to identify the issue. I am awaiting a response from dodge case worker.