2010 Toyota Highlander: doors won't lock, open or latch

Filed Jun 20, 2016 · Electrical · 50,000 miles · LA

Safety hazard - beginning in mid 2014, my driver side door lock started to give me problems not locking with the remote. I changed the battery several times to no avail. Soon, the other door locks stopped working one by one. Eventually, none of the locks worked with the remote or by pressing the power lock buttons on the doors. When this problem initially started, I noticed my radio station information would also disappear or be illegible. When I took the vehicle to the dealer, it was over $1,000 to have the actuators repaired, since they had "gone bad". After researching a bit, I noticed several makes, models and years of toyota vehicles are also having these problems. My vehicle only had $50,000 miles at most when all this started, and I maintain the suggested maintenance. I think toyota is well aware of the faulty parts they have installed but don't want to make the necessary repairs due to the cost. This is a major safety issue if someone thinks they have locked their vehicle and could be a victim of a serious crime or other safety hazard.

Filed Jul 22, 2015 · Electrical · 54,000 miles · KY

Driver door lock quick working. Could only unlock with key or by crawling over passenger seat. Took to dealer and was told it was actuator. They fixed for almost $600. Less than month later passenger door lock did same thing. Called dealer and was told I would have to pay to get it fixed. Let it stay that way until may 2015. Local mechanic fixed for little over $300. About 2 weeks later, driver door lock will not unlock at times when it will not, the key now won't work. Have to crawl across passenger seat to unlock I have numerous complaints on internet about this issue. Actuators need recalling bb

Filed Mar 27, 2015 · Electrical · 46,000 miles · GA

In january of 2013, I took my highlander into a dealer's service department to diagnose a problem with my driver's side front automatic lock, which had completely stopped working at around 46,000 miles. This means I had to physically press the lock as not even the key would work. I had to open the passenger side door, crawl across the seat, & unlock the driver's side door in order to get in my car. I was told by the dealer that the problem was the door lock actuator, which went out, & it was no longer under warranty. Rather than paying $575 at the dealer, I found a mechanic that ordered the part & replaced the actuator for less than $400. Less than three months later, at just over 50,000 miles & only 2.5 years of owning the car, the front passenger side actuator went out. Needless to say, I had some words with the dealer, & they agreed to do a one-time "courtesy" fix, replacing it at no cost. Over the next few months, both of the rear door actuators went out. Not wanting to spend $800+ to replace the actuators, I decided to live with risk & annoyance this caused, hoping there'd soon be a recall. Well, here we are in march 2015, & at 87,000 miles, guess what? The front driver's side actuator is going out again. Searching the web for this issue, I found hundreds of similar complaints from other toyota owners, over a variety of models & years. This is a huge safety issue & toyota needs to recall all affected vehicles. I can come up with at least a dozen scenarios where this issue could cause serious harm to the car's occupants. If I can't get to my child in the back seat because I've been in a wreck & door is locked; if I am car-jacked b/c the door wouldn't lock; if I have to enter through the passenger's side to unlock my door and x/y/z happens... I've already locked myself out due to this issue (car thinks doors are unlocked & won't warn me my keys are inside)! Help!

Filed Oct 21, 2014 · Electrical, Visibility · 3,000 miles · IN

Several times since we purchased the vehicle, the front driver's window will come off track and not allow to roll up the window. This really is not a safety issue however one time the window did not come off track however the door would not open from the inside. We had to roll down the window to open from the outside. This was very scary since my wife drives the vehicle and transports our children and grandson. I was afraid if she were in an accident and the power window did not work she would have to find another way to exit the vehicle. Since the vehicle has been out of warranty, we found another place to fix the issue. We still have issues at times with the window. Another issue is that the rear door sensor constantly indicates the door is open when it is not. When this happens, the rear display stops working and says rear door open, the overhead lights flash, and the door chime sounds. I consider this a safety issue since it causes a distraction while driving. With the door chiming, lights flashing, and the rear display showing a message, it takes our attention away from driving.

Filed Jan 3, 2011 · Body, Electrical · 6,000 miles · MO

2010 highlander 4wd: system check panel I indicating the rear door is open, when it's not. Been to dealer 3 times. Car has 6000 miles on it. The rear door open indicator effects door locking ability with key fob as well as continual chime indicating rear door is open in conjunction with turning dome light off and on. Dealer thought it was rear door strike plate. Adjusted accordingly. This was not the problem. 3rd visit to dealer still trying to pinpoint why this is happening so far no luck. Electrical bad door sensor faulty electrical door switch this problem is very annoying and now times consuming 3 visits to the dealer and still no solution. Rear door open indicator initially made to stop by rolling down driver side window at highway speed. Indicator also made to go off when road turns to the left only. <- ? Moisture causing short in rear door electrical switch? Maybe.